Method of making boots and shoes



March 10,- 1925. I 1,529,047

I E. E. WINKLEY METHOD OF MAKING BOOTS AND SHOES 'Originiifiled Jan.- 25, 1918 Patented Mar. 10, 1925.

Enmus .E. wmxmng, OF LYNN, massaonusmsvsnssienon ,To nNI'rEn seamen CHINERY qoaroaarnxou, ,or remasomnawanasm, acoarommronornnw JERSEY.

To all 107mm it may concern:

Be it known thatIQEnAs'rUsE. \VINKLEY, a citizen of -the United States, residing at Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful "Improvements in IMet-hods of Making Boots and Shoes; and .I do hereby declarethe following tobe a can, clear, and exact description ofthe invention, such :as Willenablerothers sltill'eddn the 'art to which it -appertainsto make and use the same.

This invention'relatesto methods (if-finale ing boots andshoes, and it has special reference 'to such methods *as :are adapted for the production of regular, and ;\'vell-shaped boots and 1 shoes, particularlyat-the heel end thereof.

'In the commerc ial manufacture of boots and "shoes, it has heretofore been customary to attach a rough heel to the heel-seat ;por' tion of the ioutso'l'e, after which a definitely shaped, condensed top lift is spanked 'on. The heel "end of the shoe, constituting the rough heel "and the heel seat 0'1: the outsole, is then trimmed or shamed to its :fi-nal size andform 'ebv means :of a cutterpthe movements of which are prescribed and deter mined #through the ='agency* of guide :mem-' bers rthat cooperatiwely engagethe edge of the 'top-rli ft and *crease of the heel-seat between the upper and the outsole. The final shape of :the 'heelkend-itherefore, depends upon the,-accuracyrof the-position ofithe'topli ftend the :size and econtour of vthe *top-lift and heelrcrease. The vheel crease is rarely perfectly regular but is generally distorted and somewhat uneven, {and .iS practically always affected by the hack seam (of the shoe. Moreover, vthe :topdiftis' ve'ry aptwto be .located slightly ioif'eentre.-

The result-of (trimming the lheel end of theshoeto the ltop lift and heel crease as guides therefore, glS ltorpro'duee nonuniform shoes, Tillie wheel'rends: of which rare more 101 less irregular, distorted and "lop-sided in shape. 1

The object of "the present' invention is to provide amethodof finishing 'the heel ends of looots and "shoes, the practice of which results in regularity, uniformity and sub stantial perfection in size, form and appear ance.

In accordance withlthe present; invention, it :is proposed to employ "heelswthat, 'before madman to thes shoe,are :to definite,

'nitely shaped heel.

mom DF-IMAKING BOOTS :AND snows.

Applicationfileu January 25, 1918f Serial No. 213,683. .fRenewed.November 21; 1922.

regularand final size and s'hape,preferably, although not necessarily, asset forth in a copending application Serial 'No. 213,681

filed by the present applicant of: even date seat ofthe outsole is fitted, as by being trimmed or trimmed and randed,-to'-the defi- This is accomplished by means of a suitable cutter,-the quantity of W-HStG- stock to be removed 'being gaged, or determined, by i a controlling device that co-op era'tive'ly en gages i the lateral suriace oi the hee'l-body contiguous'to theseatiace of the heel. The edge of the heel-seat "and the heel may be,- in-some kinds of "shoes, later scouredand 'finally finished together *in accordance with customary practice.

The novel methodwill be most readily understood by a reference to the accompanying drawing illustrating the preferred manner of practising the invention.

*In the accompanying "drawing the single figu're is 'a view,=in side -'elevation, of a shoe, having aheel of final size and shape attached, properly supported for performing the {finishing operations on 'its heel end in accordance with 'thepresent method.

The mechanism illustrated and described as being adapted for use in practicing the method of the present invention is not claimed "herein, as it "formsithe subjectmatter =of a 'copending divisional application Serial No. 361;642, filed February 27, 1920, by lthe present applicant.

Referring to the drawing, the apparatus there delineated for illustrative purposes shows ashoe'lO, having an .un'finished out sole;12,'an attached heel "12L and top-.li'ft 16 of final size and's'hape, clamped in position upon a support *2'0,the "heel-seat 22 of the ou'tsdle [l2 beingboth trimmed and 'randed by means of a rotary -cutter 24 that is definitel y positioned relatively to the hel seat portion 22' "duri-ng the trimming operation through the agen'cy of "a guide 26ithat co- 0 eratiyely engages the lateral surface of tiedcfiniteiy shaped-heel 14: which serves as a pattern or templet, n I

The shoe 10 may be of any type of con stcucticnyhaving a rough, unfinished outso'le secured thereto. heel-=14 is prefer ablytreated and to -fi11'ails1ze meform in the manner set forth in the above mentioned copending application, and it is properly centered with respect to the shoe and attached to the heel-seat portion 22 of the outsole 12 in the ordinary manner, a top-lift 16, also of final size and form, being spanked on or otherwise suitably positioned.

The support 20 for holding the shoe during the trimming operation constitutes a plate that is rigidly associated with a supporting post 28 and is provided with edge clamps 30, an adjustable breast guide 32 for positioning the heel, and a clamping foot 34 that is disposed within the shoe and acts to firmly clamp the shoe to the support 20.

The rotary cutter 24 is provided with a hub 35 that is rotatabl; mounted upon a stud, 36 which is carried by a supporting arm 38, and said cutter 24 is provided with an upper projecting cutting portion or lip 42 for beveling or cutting the randing 44 on the upper edge of the heel-seatportion 22 of the outsole 12, and also with a slightly inclined, main cutting portion 46 for trimming the edge thereof. The cutter 24 is of substantially the same width as that of the heel-seat portion 22 and is adapted to trim the outsole only. A pulley 48 is fixedly secured to the hub 35, and a belt 50 cooperates therewith to rotate the cutter 24 at high speed.

Beneath the cutter 24 and loosely mounted upon the hub 35 above the pulley 48, is the disk or guide 26. the periphery of which has the same inclination as that of the main cutting portion 46 of'the cutter and extends in alignment therewith. The periphery of the guide 26 is adapted to en gage the lateral surface of the definitely shaped and formed heel 14 at the edge of the heel seat and, thereby, to definitely position and guide the cutter 24 during the trimming operation, to the end. that the heel-seat portion 22 of the outsole is trimmed and randed to the contour of the adjoining portion of the shaped heel as a pattern. In order to protect the upper 52 of the shoe 10 from being injured during the trimming operation, a disk or shield 54 is loosely mounted above the cutter 24 upon a screw 56 which is threaded into the end of the stud 36, and the edge of this shield projects into the heel-seat crease and-serves as a barrier for the intended purpose.

During the trimming operation, relative bodily movement between the shoe 10 and the cutter 24 is effected in any suitable man ner, it being within the contemplation of the invention that either or both the shoe and cutter be bodily rotated.

By reason of trimming and randing the heel-seat portion 22 of the outsole to the contour of the definitely shaped and formed heel as a pattern, it is evident that. a correspondingly definitely shaped outsole, heelseat and randing will be insured. The heel seat portion 22, heel 14 and top-lift 16 are subsequently lightly scoured and otherwise finished in accordance with well-known practice. Thus, regular, well-formed and substantially perfect completed heel ends are uniformly produced upon shoes that are operated upon in accordance with the method constituting the present invention.

Those skilled in the art will recognize that the apparatus illustrated is not the only apparatus that may be employed to practise the method herein disclosed and reference should be had to the appended claims which define the true scope of the invention.

Having thus described. the novel method and one mode of practising it when employing its underlying principle, yet recognizing that some modifications and changes may be made without departing from its spirit and scope,what is claimed as new, is:

1. The method of making boots and shoes which comprises applying a definitely shaped heel of final form and size to the heel-seat Off the outsole, and trimming the heel-seat oi the outsole to the shaped heel.

2. The method of making boots and shoes which comprises positioning a definitely shaped heel of final form and size relatively to the heel-seat of the outsole, using the shaped heel as a guiding pattern to trim the outsole to a corresponding contour. and finishing the trimmed outsole and the definitely shaped heel at the same time.

3. The method of making boots and shoes which includes applying a definitely shaped heel of final size and form to the heel-seat of the outsole. and trimming and randing the heel-seat of the outsole to the shaped heel as a guide.

4-. The step of making boots and shoes which consists in trimming the heel-seat of the outsole to the attached heel as a pattern.

5. The step of making boots and shoes which consists in randing the outsole to the attached heel as a pattern.

6. The method of shaping the heel-seats of outsoles to which a shaped heel has been applied which comprises trimming the heelseat by a out which does ont extend into the adjoining; heel. and utilizing the lateral surface of the heel body as a pattern to determine the contour of the trimming cut.

7. The method of shaping the heel-seats of outsoles to which a shaped heel has been applied which comprises trimming the heelseat. and determining the contour of the trimming cut from the contour of the lateral surface of the heel at th edge of its heelseat.

8. That improvement in methods of makim; shoes which consists in applying a previously shaped heel to an outsole having surplus material around the margin of its heelseat, and thereafter trimming said heel-seat by physical guidance of the edge of the heelseat of the heel.

9. That step in making shoes which consists in trimming the edge of the heel-seat portion 01 an outsole by physical guidance of that portion of the lateral surface of a previously shaped heel which is contiguous to its heel-seat.

10. That step in making shoes which consists in simultaneously randing and trimming the edge of the heel-seat portion of an outsole by physical guidance of the edge of the heel-seat of a previously shaped heel.

11. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in clamping to each other an outsole and a heel, one of which has previously been shaped to determine the shape of the other, and thereafter trimming so said other by physical guidance of the contiguous portion of the previously shaped one while maintaining them in clamped relation.

12. That improvement in methods of makin g shoes which comprises the step of removing Waste stock from the periphery of the heel-seat of an outsole to fit it to a heel, and gaging said removal, during the removing operation, by physical engagement and measurement of the edge of the heel-seat of a previously shaped heel.

13. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises the step of removing Waste stock from the periphery of the heel-seat of an outsoleto fit it to a heel,

and determining the quantity of Waste stock to be removed by physical engagement and measurement ofa previously shaped heel at the edge of the heel-seat thereof.

ERASTUS E. VVINKLEY. 

